Embossing Plate Workshop

Embossing Plate Facts

The copper plate takes around 6/7 hours to etch in the chemicals which is the most crucial point of this process.

And the final emboss depends on what you want, as different effects with different negatives.


The making of the negative.

Whatever is etched away is the raised part to the plate.

On the negative print you need to make sure that what you want to be raised is black and what needs to be indented needs to be white.

Also you shouldn't flip the print as we will put it ink side up on the copper plate, so therefore automatically reverses it.




The sizing of the plate.

You also need the plate the same size of the paper you are wanting to emboss due to otherwise you will get an indentation from the edges of the copper plate unless you want that effect to take place. So if you have a big piece of paper you are best using the laser cut on some thickish material due to copper plates been very expensive.



The laser cut as a quick replacement for copper plate.

So if you use laser cut the best materials to use is the MDF 1mm or mount board although, on this you need to flip and you cants stick the work different ways.

DON"T THICK THAT THICK STOCK IS THE BEST ANSWER!



Important Factors.

You can spray the paper with water so allow the fibers of the paper become more flexible and easily moved, but then the problem of this is drying as you need to stretch it out as it dries because it shrinks when it is drying and therefore will loose definition.

Inking it- This doesn't work if its been etched, unless you are wanting the non-etched inks which can be done. This is due to when inking the plate it sits in the corners of the plate and therefore overflows.

So if you computer print the paper that you want to emboss then line it up with the copper plate so if you use an A4 plate and also an A4 printout.

The point size is very important, 12 points or above works OK. But anything below 10 points is a hit or miss. Sans serif fonts are better to emboss due to it been chunkier and therefore are more successful. 
Script is very nice when embossed but it will be battle to make it work this is due to the surface area needs when embossed is bigger than what it would be on screen, and the kerning of these types of fonts are very low.

The deeper you etch, the better you emboss.
Although, the deeper you etch the loss of definition.

Snowdon
5000 PSI
A3 - £11




What your embossing needs to be strong & tough.
What you want to be embossed needs to be flexible.

If you want to do a photo etch then if you have tone you will loose definition in image.
You cant do highly detailed images.

The textile pattern - this copper plate was used to print on to tiles.





How to make an etching plate

Sand the plate after choosing the least scratched side. (Lift off the sander before turning it off as otherwise it will spin off on the plate and therefore leave scratches on the plate that will show up on the plate in the emboss.)

Then degrease & rinse - If the water runs off easily then it means its on to dry.

Blot dry with newsprint. (Don't rub just lay paper over and rub over it.) 

Apply a thin layer of varnish to the plate. Then pull back on the bottom edge to get rid of the excess part at the bottom of the plate. (When it is dry you can also scratch into the varnish to make emboss)

 
Allow to dry. 

Place onto the press.

Then you need to get the light sensitive film out.

Peel off the piece from the inside of the curl.

Lay over the top of the plate, but don't press down!

Then lay acetate over the top also.

 



Put blanket down & ready to roll through press.

 





The press needs to be as tight as it can be so it can crush the plate onto the film.

Then rotate the plate and then roll back through (So your laminating on the X & Y axis.)

If air bubbles appear this means that you haven't degreased the plate properly. You will have to start all over again if this occurs.

Then trim off the excess of the film over the edges of the plate.

 

Put it in a draw face down because it is not overly sensitive but best to be safe.

Then develop the image should appear as copper. (Image goes face down so the ink if facing the light.) 

Then do this from around 9-10 units but this is only trial and tested for this timing at vernon street.

Then we need to make a solution carbonate:
10 grams per litre is needed.
You need to scoop out 10 grams and then use a little amount of hot water to dissolve any lumps and break it down. Then fill it up with cold water the best temperature is 18 degrees. Do this for around 2 to 3 litres, but 1 litre at a time. The temperature is best to be colder than hotter.

Then remove the protective sleeve.

Place the plate into the solution for around 3 minutes, this depends on the temperature.

Then every 30 seconds brush the sponge over the plate without weight of yourself just the weight of the sponge.

You need to make sure that you have no slight film on the plate at all. (You are best telling this from lifting it out of the water and seeing if you can see the surface is grainy.)
You cant over expose it in the solution so longer is better.

 






Rinse off with cold water, hot water will blister the varnish.

Then blot dry again.

Allow to dry fully before post drying it.

The deep electric blue on the copper plate comes from the exposure of the post dry.

Then tape the back of the copper plate too.

Tape a hook on to the plate a one of the edges.

Then hook it on side of a bubbling tank, then stays here for around 6 hours.

 




Rinse it off & then repeat the rinse.

Then take off the blue foil of the plate.

Then place into the washing tank for 10 minutes.

Its ready to emboss.

Use the hydraulic nipping press.

It needs a hard underneath, then the paper you are wanting to emboss then the plate face down, then a wad of newsprint on top, slide it into the press.

Need to close the thread by turning the wheel at the back.

Then pump the stick till wont move any more.

Then push the button in & then pump the stick till it wont go any more.

The gauge on the front tells you the PSI.
You want between 4 & 6000

Then to release you need to push the button & undo the valve & then pull the work out.


You can use a chop this is die cutting with two plates and then they interlock. The chop is a cheaper version of the nipping press and therefore the quality will be less and the look will also suffer from this fact.


Evaluation

When we tested a copper plate & also MDF. You could tell the different qualities as the copper plate was a deeper emboss and more definition also this could be due to the MDF we used was very thick and there this could have effected the quality.

It is a very long process and very tedious. Although very worth while as will last a prolonged period of time. Although, I dont think I would use the copper plate for something that would be reused. More for maybe like a business card etc...

Although a very good process.